AudioVox CCS-100 Cruise Control Installation : 1991 Concours
August 2004, Revision B
By Dave Krenk Concours Owners Group #5941 lrn2fly1
Note From Murph
I would like to thank Dave for an excellent piece of work! While this was written for the Concours, I am sure you can use it to work on other motorcycles as well. If you haven't purchased a cruise unit yet, please consider doing so from us.
The following is a summary of the information required to install an AudioVox CCS-100 cruise control system on a 1991 Kawasaki Concours. This information is provided for reference only, and is not intended to replace the AudioVox Installation Manual. If installing this system on another model-year Concours, consult the appropriate Kawasaki service manual and verify all electrical connections.
This document is not intended to be a training course on how to install automotive cruise controls on motorcycles. It is intended to be a supplement to the Audiovox installation Manual, for those persons that choose to install the Audiovox CCS-100 cruise control system on their motorcycle. Persons using this document, or any part thereof, must accept full responsibility for their own actions in regard to the installation, and subsequent operation of the motorcycle with the installed cruise control system.
In providing this information, I am assuming the reader is technically competent to do an installation such as this, and has a basic understanding of the Kawasaki Concours; such as removing the fuel tank, 12V wiring, etc. It will be necessary for the installer to fabricate (or purchase from Murphs') a bracket for the keypad, mount the servo unit, mount the vacuum canister, make electrical connections, as well as throttle and vacuum connections.
I suggest you read this entire document, and become thoroughly familiar with the AudioVox manual before you proceed. Once you know what you need to do, the CCS-100 is not that difficult to install. Everything that follows is based on the installation I did on my 1991 Concours. I spent a lot of time just looking at different ways to mount the components, and the installation below should work just fine for the majority of installations.
You are welcome to use any or all of my ideas as you see fit. This is the way I did it on my 1991 Concours, and it works well. There are, no doubt, other ways to do the installation and still end up with a safe and functional cruise control installation.
About the Author: I have an AAS degree in Electronics (1986). I spent six years as an aircraft instrument and avionics technician, working mostly on corporate jets. I have worked as an electrician, and also done industrial electrical and electronics work. Currently I work in the engineering department of a company who designs and manufactures scientific instruments. I started riding in the early ‘70’s. I took a break while raising kids, but have been riding again since 2002. I’m really pleased with my Concours, and it’s even better with the cruise control.
Good Luck with your installation, and ride safe.
Schematic diagram of the Audiovox CCS-100 cruise control system, based on the AudioVox installation manual:
This is the basic wiring diagram of the system, as it comes from
AudioVox (magnetic speed sensor has been removed).
(the abbreviated list of things to do)
- Remove the fuel tank and side panels.
- Install the keypad on the left handlebar, and route the wiring down to the right side.
- Set the DIP switches in the servo unit.
- Install the servo unit and canister to the right side of the battery box.
- Route the servo cable up to the rear of the RH ignition coil, use bracket provided.
- Connect the short “throttle wire loop” around the barrel of the throttle cable.
- Connect the short “throttle wire loop” to the servo cable, using the beaded chain.
- Make wiring connections, per the installation manual.
- Make vacuum connections.
- Power up the system, make sure it turns on/off from the keypad and that both brake levers cause 12V on the purple wire.
- Reinstall the fuel tank and side panels.
- Test ride.
Electrical Connections, based on the AudioVox installation manual:
- Power connections, (12V): keypad Red wire connects, through the 4-pin connector, to the servo unit Red wire. Both Red wires are connected to 12V power. This should be 12V power that is switched by the ignition key. The Audiovox manual has you connect to the 12V side of the brake switch (they are assuming there is only one brake switch). In my installation, I added a power switch on the mounting bracket that controls power to both the servo unit and keypad. Select your power connection based on the existing electrical loads you have. The CCS-100 is a low-power device, but you might want to avoid using circuits already loaded down with extra lighting, or other accessories.
- Ground connections: keypad Black wire and servo unit Black wire are connected to chassis ground.
- Keypad Brown (on/off), Yellow (resume), and Green (set) wires connect, through the 4-pin connector, directly to the servo unit.
- Servo unit Purple wire connects to the brake lights. The most convenient place to make this connection is at the rear brake switch. In my case, it was the blue wire. The important thing is that the Purple wire gets 12V applied when either the front or rear brake is applied. This is an important safety feature, so use a Voltmeter to verify before you make this connection.
- Servo unit Blue wire is connected to the negative terminal of the Left (1 & 4) ignition coil. In my case, this is the black wire. In any case it is the wire that goes to your tachometer. Double check your wiring diagram before you make this connection if you have another model-year Concours. The “noise suppressor” (supplied by AudioVox) is a 20K Ohm (1 Watt) resistor. You need to leave this in the circuit, so, either coil up the excess wire, or cut/splice to shorten it up.
- Keypad Gray wire is for backlighting of the keypad. In a car, you would connect this wire to the instrument lighting dimmer circuit. You can connect this line directly to 12V; however, I felt the lighting was too bright, so I added a 270 Ohm (1/4 Watt) resistor in series. This cut the brightness of the keypad down about 30-40%. You can experiment with resistor values and use about any value of resistor from 100 to 500 Ohms (1/4 Watt size) to dim the backlighting, as an option.
- Servo unit magnetic sensor Gray and Black (pair) can be removed, as you will not be using the magnetic pickup for speed reference.
Keypad: bracket, mounting, wiring, and waterproofing
Disassembly of the keypad: Use a small screwdriver to carefully pop the front bezel off. This will leave you with the rubber keypad, the printed circuit board, and the back of the keypad enclosure. The PC board is marked, so it is easy to get it put back the correct way.
- I fabricated a bracket from aluminum, and used the existing mirror mount to locate the keypad behind and below the clutch reservoir. You will need a bolt M10 x 1.25, length 15mm or as short as you can find. If you don’t want to fabricate the bracket, there are now some ready-made brackets available, such as the one available from Murphs Kits (www.murphskits.com).
- You can use the adhesive tape to stick the keypad in place, or screw it to the bracket. I removed the adhesive, drilled the back of the enclosure, and used four screws to mount the back of the keypad enclosure to the bracket: three 4-40 x 3/16”flat head screws and one 4-40 x 1/2” pan head screw. The long screw sticks out the back and acts as a stud for a cable clamp (see photos). Note: the upper right screw must be flat head to clear the capacitor on the circuit board, the others can be pan head, if desired.
- I replaced the discrete wires with a Belden multi-conductor cable. Any good quality cable (6 feet long) with 22-26 gage conductors will work fine, but you must be confident in your soldering skills to do this. First, make sure you note the color and position of the existing wires. Draw a diagram and make note of the new wire colors, if different (you know they will be different). Carefully de-solder the existing wires, then solder in the new ones. Note: the existing wires have an RTV-like sealant on them. The wires will pull out easily as you de-solder them. After all wires are removed, you can easily remove the sealant before soldering the new wires.
- Once you are ready to do the final installation of the keypad, you need to think about waterproofing it. These keypads weren’t made for outdoor use, but can be effectively waterproofed. Mount the back of the enclosure by the method of your choice. Drill a 1/8” drain hole in the lower left corner of the front bezel (not in the face, but from the bottom). Run a bead of clear RTV across the top of the enclosure, and on the sides (not the bottom), leaving a little extra in the corners. If you are using the adhesive to mount the keypad, be sure to get some RTV behind the enclosure to protect the edge of the adhesive (it will last longer). Position the PC board and the rubber keypad, then snap the front bezel in place. Run a small bead of RTV around the top and sides. Leaving the bottom edge un-sealed will allow any water to work it’s way out of the enclosure. The most likely place for water to enter is around the buttons. Remove any excess RTV. (see photos)
5. Install the keypad/bracket assembly, and route the keypad wires along with the choke cable under the tank, then toward the right side cover area. See photos. Note: Don’t get in a hurry with the cable ties – wait until the servo cable is in position.
Mount the Servo Unit and vacuum canister
1. Remove the bracket from the servo unit, reverse the direction, and reinstall it. With the bracket facing up the vacuum hose connection should be facing up, and the servo cable facing forward.
2. Set the DIP switches in the servo unit:
DIP Switch settings for Kawasaki Concours
SW1 ON Sets controller for 4000 pulses per mile
SW2 OFF Sets controller for 4000 pulses per mile
SW3 OFF Selects Tach mode
SW4 OFF Medium sensitivity (See notes below)
SW5 OFF Medium sensitivity
SW6 OFF Selects “normally open” control switches (as supplied by AudioVox)
SW7 ON Selects “coil” as the source of timing pulses
Jumper (next to the DIP switches) must be “open” to select manual transmission. Pull the jumper off the header pins, turn it 1/4 turn and reinstall it on just one of the pins.
- The manual says to remove the 10-pin connector when changing the DIP switches, but doesn’t say why, so just do it with power off.
- Low and Medium sensitivity work quite well, even without a vacuum canister. (Medium is the recommended setting)
- High sensitivity gives better speed regulation due to quicker throttle changes. The down side is that the throttle response tends to oscillate, sometimes giving a “jerky” ride – you can feel it go On-Off-On a few times before it settles down. (High is not recommended)
3. Remove your battery and drill two 1/4” holes in the right side of the battery box, as shown. Locate the top hole 1/2” down from the top edge of the box. Position the servo unit with the servo cable pointing up and forward along the frame. Use the bracket to locate the bottom hole (the holes are approximately 15/16” apart). Install two 1/4-20 x 3/4” bolts. Put a nut on the bottom bolt (as a spacer) and tighten it up.
4. Mount the vacuum canister on the upper bolt, then mount the servo unit on both bolts. The canister should fit nicely along the frame, and the servo cable should be pointing up and forward, along the right side of the frame.
Vacuum line connections
1. Find the vacuum line that goes between the #1 and #4 carbs. Disconnect the vacuum line from the #1 carb (rider’s left). Add the T fitting and a 3” piece of vacuum line, then connect the 3” line to the #1 carb. My reasons for connecting the vacuum lines this way:
- Don’t have to cut any existing lines, making it easy to return to stock if you ever need to.
- The 3” extra length allows the vacuum lines (between #1 and #4 carbs) to be routed farther forward, leaving more clearance for the beaded chain.
2. Route a length of vacuum line from the T fitting to the MAN fitting of the vacuum canister, cut to length, and connect the line.
3. Cut a 12” length of vacuum line, and connect one end to the servo unit. Route the line behind the servo unit bracket, and down to the AMP fitting of the canister.
View of canister, servo unit, and vacuum lines after installation:
4. The system can be operated without a vacuum canister, but will not regulate speed as well when going up a hill. Adding a vacuum canister greatly improves the speed regulation of the system – plus/minus 1 MPH under average conditions.
Theory of operation of the check valve and canister:
The servo unit requires a relatively constant source of vacuum to operate. The vacuum source of the motorcycle is from the carbs, and the actual amount of vacuum will vary with throttle position, amount of load, etc. The canister is used to store some vacuum for the servo to use in the case where the vacuum source is decreased. When the vacuum source decreases, the check valve closes, temporarily isolating the canister and servo from the vacuum source, allowing the servo to continue to operate normally. When the amount of vacuum again increases, the check valve opens, and the vacuum in the canister (and servo) is replenished.
Servo Cable Installation:
1. Route the servo cable along the right side of the frame under the top radiator hose, then reverse back over the coolant filler cap, along the top frame tube toward the Right (#2 & #3) Coil.
2. Use the short part of the “adjustable cable mounting bracket assembly” (see parts list) to mount the cable to the rear bolt of the RH coil. Bend the bracket down and toward the center (between #2 and #3 carbs) as required. Be sure to tighten the retainer nuts on the servo cable end.
3. Use cable ties to secure the servo cable and keypad wiring, as shown.
1. Open the throttle all the way, and loop a piece of scrap wire (2-3 feet long) around the carb sync screw between #3 and #4 carbs. Tie it off so that it is holding the throttle open.
2. Connect the beaded chain to the short “throttle wire loop”. Note: Use a scratch awl or small screwdriver to open up the bead chain couplers – they are very tight. Once installed, use pliers to carefully close them.
3. Disassemble the throttle grip housing, and remove the “pull” throttle cable from the housing. Push the cable so that a loop forms at the carb end.
This is a good time to lube your throttle cables, if you haven’t done so lately
4. Use a long hemostat (or the tool of your choice) to carefully grab the throttle cable. Slide the cable to the right, and remove the barrel from the throttle plate.
5. Pass the throttle cable barrel through the “throttle wire loop” , then partially reinstall the barrel. Before sliding the barrel back into position, pass the “throttle wire loop” under the left side of the barrel. Slide the barrel back into position, and the “throttle wire loop” should end up on the right side of the throttle cable.
- Make sure there is no binding or interference between the throttle wire loop and the throttle cable.
- The throttle cable guide is only designed for one cable thickness, so it may be necessary to spread the guides apart slightly. In my case there was some binding between the throttle cable, loop, and guides, so I used a screwdriver to open up the gap between the guides.
6. Reinstall the throttle cable in the hand grip, remove the wire from the carbs (from step #1), and make sure the throttle works smoothly.
7. While working the throttle, visually inspect the throttle cable and the “throttle wire loop”. Make sure the throttle works smoothly, and there is no interference from the “throttle wire loop”
8. With the throttle fully closed, and the servo cable fully extended, measure out the bead chain so that there is a little slack (mine was 11 beads long). Cut the chain as required, and connect it to the servo cable, as you did in step #2 above.
1. Turn on the ignition key. Check to see that the CCS-100 turns on/off from the keypad.
2. Use a voltmeter to verify that the purple wire of the 10-pin connector gets 12 volts when either the front or rear brake is used (when the brake light is on).
3. Be sure all wiring, servo cable, and vacuum lines are secured. Be sure the beaded chain and loop do not rub on any wiring, vacuum lines, etc.
4. Reinstall the fuel tank and side panels
Testing the system:
Find a convenient stretch of highway. When you are at speed, and away from other vehicles, turn the system on.
- Engage the system: Press SET and slowly relax your throttle hand. The system should regulate your selected speed
- Check the COAST and ACCEL functions. The CCS should lock in at the new speed.
- Check for proper disengagement: There are four ways to disengage:
- 1. Front brake actuation
- 2. Rear brake actuation
- 3. Turn the system off (keypad switch or optional power switch)
- 4. Sudden increase in engine RPM (clutch disengagement)
Parts not supplied with AudioVox CCS-100:
- cable ties, 8”
- 1/4-20 x 3/4” bolt, 2 each,
- 1/4” lock washer, 2 each
- 1/4-20 nut, 3 each
- Keypad bracket, shop made or available at Murphs' Kits. Email Murph at firstname.lastname@example.org
- M10-1.25mm bolt, 15mm thread length (or less), 10mm flat washer
- (When you purchase a Bergmen Keypad bracket the above mentioned bolt is included)
- other items may be required, depending on your particular installation